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Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Mon/Tue Climbing

Monday, Momentum:

The boys are going to be out later tonight, so we took Tan to the gym. All day long "me want to climb". The minute I got home from work she made a beeline for the door "Daddy, take me climb." I changed and off we went.

She did some bouldering, and we managed to get her harness on and tied into a toprope on the "rainbow" route - maybe 5.3 if you think too hard. It's the one they put kids on in the classes.



She didn't balk too bad (last time she fought the harness off real quick) and managed to get about 6' up before she began thinking scary thoughts. DW was belaying and I was ready to grab the harness straps in case she looked like she was about to smash her face on a hold. She went up there about ten times before she started tiring too much, so we wrapped it up and took her to the daycare.

Then it was our turn. We went around to the arete with the purple 5.8 (the one I thought was a decent 5.9 or stiff 5.8) where there is a new green route - unrated.

I made it about 7/8 the way before bailing. Very smooth rounded feet and some of the handholds were at odd angles and not friendly at all. In fact, DW was laughing about it remembering a climbing video in which Sharma said something like "the best technique, for lack of a better term, is 'humping the arete'."

Anyway, DW ran up it, so it's probably a 5.8. If she doesn't have to think it's a 5.8. If she pauses to think at all it's a 5.9. I tried it again and got to the same spot, but quicker and simpler this time.

DW did a new 5.9 on the curvy wall. K came up and asked how she was doing. I said it's not too bad, she's moving quick. She said it was tough (using slightly stronger language) and that DW was doing very good, and then DW fell. Total pop-off surprise. We laughed it off, she said hello to K, and then finished it.

I went to a new green 5.8 and onsited it. It's nice to be doing that now. DW did a new yellow 5.10 that starts on the arete by where the old red "pockets" route is (was?). She did great.

We grabbed Tan and chatted with the desk crew, two of whom want to go dry-tooling with us soon, and maybe ice later as well.



Tuesday The Quarry:

We got a little later start than expected this morning, but we got right to it at The Quarry in Provo. DW did a 5.10-like 5.7 and then I tried it and bailed right away - my left fingers did not like that at all. I slid to the side and started a 5.6 that kicked my butt when I got to a set of green SoIll teeth - with, yes, my left hand. I hung for a bit, then tried again and failed finding somewhere to put my feet to work my way up, and hung a bit more. Finally I got past it and tried hard to run my way up. I rested in a low frog position (monkey hang) and chalked. Yes, she yelled "go Pooch". I finished it. Dang that was tough.

DW tried it then, and did make it, but she had to think. That makes it a 5.9 equivalent. Whew! She also said she hated the teeth. I skipped a turn cause my left arm/hand was hurting pretty bad, and she went to the 5.8 roof that kicked her butt before. She hung once near the bottom because she was confused thinking it was a different route and she couldn't find her holds, but then went right on up and over the roof like it was nothing. I told her it was all the practice on the mid-grade routes that was helping her technique.

I got on the pink-tape 5.7 and made it up to the same spot, but a lot quicker and more confident this time. I think I have it worked out, but ran out of gas in my left hand - and it's the one that needs to be holding on while I reach up with my right, so no go.

We packed up and left then to get me back to work on time. On the way I suddenly had a cramp in my left forearm and thankfully she had a Hello Kitty Ice Pack in her lunch pack, so held it tight to my forearm and tried hard not to whine too much. Oh, well.

I know this has nothing to do with our climbing, but found it on my phone. Left over from our trip to Farm Country.


Monday, September 29, 2008

Draper Red Rock Dry-Tooling

Around the far right side next to the trail is a chunk of rock up the arete that is probably totally worthless as a rock route. The route to the left of it is listed at 5.6, and has a voted rating of 5.3 on MP. So no one is going to notice a few scratches here and there.

We had tons of fun toproping it. I blew off a few times, especially going over a bulge near the top, and did some cool moves (ego, doh!) including a steinpull in a 3/8" hole.

DW took to it pretty quickly, though my favorite was a fall she took while only about 6' up that with rope stretch had her nearly sitting on the ground.

Some other climbers came up, and some were pretty curious. One stopped to talk to us for a bit, then looked at me and said "do you have a blog? I think I saw your picture" - well he'd searched google for "draper red rock" and found some of my earlier posts. Far out. Another guy wanted to watch for a bit, but didn't really have that much interest, then we tried talking a Momentum employee into coming with us next winter so we could corrupt him to the cold side... bwahahaha

No one was all agro over us (it can happen - if you're really trying, you'll only take 5.12/13 size holds and push yourself to the max, and it is slightly possible in crappier rock to pull flakes off, so it's easy to piss off some upper level or curmudgeonly climbers) so we had a good morning.

I did 3 and she did 4. Great day. Thanks.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Climbing Inside Again

Monday, Sept. 22: Momentum

We only had a little time, and mostly came so DW could hang posters for the WERC program she takes care of.

First off we put Tan in her little tiny rock shoes we picked up on clearance in Dillon, CO and let her scramble around.



Note that the hand is for balance and support, and in one case to help her find the right hold. The shoes are about 4 sizes too big and should last her a couple years (unless she wears them out...).

Then we tucked her away safely in daycare and had a little time to climb, so we harnessed up and went to it. DW started on a new black 5.8 and onsited it like she was just swimming up it. Then I got on a beige 5.8 just next to it, and onsited that - I think it was my first onsite of a 5.8 ever. Then DW got on a new 5.9 and sent that onsite as well. I decided what the heck and ended up flashing it - amazing! I rested a lot, and chalked a lot. DW was shouting "You're like Alex Puccio, chalking between every hold!" Well I got up it anyway...

We grabbed Tan and headed home then to meet the boys, who were out with their father who was in town from Malaysia and would be dropped off early that night.

Tuesday, Sept. 23: The Quarry

For a break from work we sometimes climb at the Quarry during the day, and it's normally empty. Today was no exception.

DW started on a new pink 5.7 with a burly roof. She got the bottom of the roof, but didn't scope it out first, so didn't know where to go over it, and bailed. I decided what the heck, and gave it a go. I was pretty wasted by the time I got to the roof, but made the second hold over it okay, but couldn't get my legs up or go for the third hold, so I bailed.

DW tried it again, and this time she hung at the crux, but did finally send it. I gave it another shot, and this time got to the third hold, but again, couldn't get my feet up, and the way I did it hurt my shoulder a bit (but didn't make it ding, thank goodness - hate to take a month off for that again), so again, I bailed.

DW went over to an unmarked red route with an interesting start, but it became obvious right away it was in 5.10+ territory, so she bailed.

I went back to the pink 5.7 and gave it another shot. This time I got to the third hold over, hanging good, figured my feet out, and how to get to the fourth hold, but didn't have enough left to actually do it, so I bailed again.

Seems wild that you can go to the Quarry and spend a morning working a 5.7 and feel totally wasted and satisfied that you had a good climb. Far out. Of course, the whole time DW is yelling "GO POOCH!"

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Angie Orlando - Pt 4

(be sure to check out pt's 1-3 below...)

Managed to sleep in a little this morning. The boys woke up and played with the beastie builders on their floor, and Tan emptied her crib of the miscellaneous critters and blankets and stuff.

I made them all cheerios and we did a spongebob marathon interspersed with el Tigre and the excellent Fairly Oddparents Fairy Baby episode.

I was emptying the fridge and mixed up all the leftover open juice bottles, and the resultant mix was a big hit with Bren and Tan - Dal thought it was too thick and sweet. He preferred the watered-down gatorade.

DW called and texted a few times from the airport. So far so good. She'll be home tonight.

I took the boys to church and made sure they got to their rooms okay, then came home with Tan who immediately turned into a cranky blubbery mass of tired, so I put her down. Dal is supposed to give a scripture today, and he memorized one. I asked if he wanted my help, but he said he was fine without it and preferred I didn't help him. He also said he'd gather up Bren afterward and wait for my by the primary room. He's getting so mature.

I went back to get them after church, and they had done just fine. Dal had actually been directed to memorize another scripture quick (guess his was too easy) and did great. So he says anyway ;)

We ran out to Costco to get gas and load up on the few things DW will be needing tomorrow morning. Then we came home and I made bacon and eggs with cheese slabs for supper. Dal loves his red spice on his eggs. Tan chowed down on cheese and banana slices.

In about 15 minutes we need to boogie out to the airport. Almost done...

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Angie Orlando - Pt 3

Got up this morning ad got the kids ready for Anne, who is watching them today while a guy from work comes to help me get the big stuff out of the garage.

It started lightning and hailing, and was pretty wild. Good thing we cancelled the manure project in the yard.

Anne got here, then shortly J arrived and we got to work in the garage. He hauled most everything to the basement alone while I did some organizational work. Anne took the kids to the park, and it rained while they were there, but it seemed they still had fun. She had brought some games (they call her the game lady) and some big baggies of homemade playdough. In passing Tan showed me her large blob of pink playdough. Cute.

We got the garage as good as we could, then J decided to do some weeding for me. Great. I still had Anne for a bit, so I slipped out to the Lehi house and turned the sprinklers off for a few days so I could mow, and down by 33% so the grass will taper off for the winter coming up. I got a few more boxes out of the garage, tidied up some in the yard, and came back.

DW texted me several times, and is having a good time today with her Mom and Grandfather partying down in Orlando. She ate in a German restaurant and even sent me pics of her food. I'll see about putting some up if I can find my microSD adapter.

We all curled up on the couch together for about an hour and watched TV, including America's Funniest Videos (until the Cubs won a game and WGN switched to live coverage of the rather sedate fans leaving the stadium), then we switched to DVR of "Destroyed in Seconds" show from Discovery. Dal was really great, but Bren got bored and went upstairs to play.

Tan's lip seems to be a bit better tonight. For a while it was a bit infected and swollen, but she seems to be healing up good now. After Destroyed, Dal wanted to watch the Sponge Bob Movie, while Bren played BC (beastie) Builders (a dinosaur playset) and Tan wandered around playing with a toy stuffed horse, making it gallop and winnie.

For their picnic lunch at the park with Anne they had bunnie crackers (like natural goldfish) chocolate chips, and turkey ham (Dal) or cold hotdogs (Bren). When I got back from the Lehi house, they were all eating chocolate chips in a bowl through a straw. Yeah, sucking the chips up a straw. Thanks for that wonderful idea.

I made them a couple of costco frozen beef patties, chopped up with ketchup, and a slice of cheese. Bren had seconds. Tan passed out on the living room floor.

I managed to get her awake by opening a kitchen cabinet which caused a pile of dishes to splatter in a 5' circle quite noisily. Dal helped me pick it up and Tan griped some, and complained some, but I managed to keep her up for about a half hour then put her to bed in her own room. I let her pick the menagerie she would sleep with tonight, including a bear, a blanket, a bottle-sucking baby, and three cabbage patches. Whew! she still fit in that pile somehow.

The boys are now watching "live" Spongebob. I put bulbs in the ceiling sockets in the garage, now that I can reach them with a ladder. And I'm blogging this.

I'll be putting them to bed in a few, then I'll reward my hard work today by continuing last night's "Force Unleashed" on Wii. I'm in the first level where the AT-ST is kicking my butt.

(if nothing else this gives you a rough idea of TMI about what we do sitting around the house)

Friday, September 19, 2008

Friday Eve. Sept. 19

(post 2 in the Orlando Angie series)

Tan seems to be surviving okay. I finished up my work emergency and picked up Bren. Going down Canyon Road, it was down to one lane for the insane PG/AF construction overload right at the school crossing. Right at school time. The construction team was letting the Southbound lane go just as I got there, but immediately it stopped. The crossing nazi was letting a group of kids cross, then she let three cars go South again, then stopped for another group of kids. This went on for about 5 minutes, by which time the Northbound lane was backed up almost to the 1100N stoplight.

I grabbed Bren, then went over to get Dal, waiting in line while each and every child was slowly walked out to the 2-3 cars that could fit in the lot, while the others waited in a line blocking driveways North of the school (small irony there, but won't post it openly - lol). Finally I got Dal, and was thankful once again for the 20 minutes and 3 liters of gas or so it cost on a per-car-per-day basis to protect my innocent child from the statistically 1 in 10,000,000 odds of a child in Utah County being abducted by a non-family member.

We ran over to office depot in Lehi or AF or wherever that wandering line crosses along that brick wall, and I got a new keyboard to overcompensate for my sore wrist (work buys these things for me - since they have a vested interest in my being able to type for 30 hours straight). The boys enjoyed sitting in the chairs and spinning, and it didn't even bother the employees.

We packed the bag out to the car, then on to Target. The door cop was irritated when the boys raced me in and beat me to the water fountain, seemingly alone, and he kept his eyes on us the whole time I loaded Tan in a basket. Boring job I guess.

We went over to the games and books and movies, and the boys read some boxes (they're looking for Sponge Bob games). We went over and looked at the Wii crap, and Dal played Kung Fu Panda on the 360 demo, and Tan played something on the DS demo. This time we did annoy an employee - guess the idea of a 2 yr-old playing a DS bothered him. We were buying a new Wii nunchuck to replace the one Tan ate the cable off of. We went over to the clearance games, then over to the pharm section. I got some sample size stuff for Ecuador, and Tan opened a tube of toothpaste for me (she loves toothpaste and brushing and all that).

We went over to the grocery section, and I got a bottle of bubble water, and a bag of chocolate goldfish and a bag of pumpkin spice kisses as treats (since overall the kids were great so far).

We ducked over to Good Earth and the AF one is amazing compared to Orem. Last time I was in the Orem one all the shelves were half-empty and the produce was mostly rotten. Like they were closing. I got some stuff for Ecuador, and a few vitamin thingies I've been low on. Tan managed to scare an employee when she did her "over the top of the seat" trick, but I told her it was normal, and that Tan was our little gymnastic climber dudette, though that didn't appease her at all. Then one of the other clerks opened up the kid room and turned on "Cars" on the player.

I parked the basket blocking the room door and did some shopping near it. As expected, the boys played in the toy box, and eventually got in trouble when they tore the lid off it, threw toys at each oher, knocked Tan over, and she cried her brains out.

I scooped up the brains, Bren put the lid back on, Dal put the toys back inside the box, and we walked the aisles together for a few minutes. I opened up a bag of Ecuador cookies (in case anyone is interested, Barbara's Animal Cookies taste good above 14,000') and gave some to Tan to stifle her little tears. Poor kid. After a few laps they quieted down so I stuck them back in the play room and finished my shopping.

We left and managed to find our way home through all the apparently random construction. Dal and Tan played Kung Fu Panda on the Wii (really, she was shaking her controller and pushing buttons and making her monkey character do stuff) and now Dal and Bren are playing Raving Rabbids 2 together.

I gave them Bacon for supper (they love my simple suppers), and Bren and Tan also had bananas.

Hopefully bedtime will go smoothly in about a hour.

What an adventure, already....

DW is in Orlando, visiting with relatives.

I've got the kids, and after taking Dal to school, Bren watched the Sponge Bob Movie while Tan napped. I got Tan up and took Bren to school, and we came back here so I could handle an emergency at work.

While deeply engrossed in solving the problem I heard a loud bang, some wild screaming, and out of the corner of my eye, a bloody Tan appeared begging for help.

Her hands were covered in blood and I washed them in the sink. No lacerations or missing parts there, so I checked her bloody face and washed it. Looks like she bit through her lip with her amazingly huge front tooth.



I squeezed the blood out of the gashes, pushing them together to see how they lined up. Nice. I took off her shirt and sprayed it, then she pointed to the "YUCK" on the floor and I sprayed that too. Gonna let it soak. Good luck.

Texted a pic of Tan's face to DW for when she lands. Bwahahaha...

Monday, September 15, 2008

Saturday Morning - Draper Red Rock

Well, speaking of gumbies...

DW and I got up early, Ann is watching the kids starting at 7 AM, and we're going to the Draper Red Rock.

We got there by 7:30 and heard voices. Loud voices. Up on the left side there seemed to be a rope and at least two guys. We went up anyway, figuring we'd stay to the right. There we discovered some really macho almost-climbers (with a crapload of gear, some new, some old, and some just freaking dang eclectic, like it was willed to them by some dead uncle - almost wanted to look in the seams for the bloodstains...).

The two almost-climbers were winching some poor total-gumby up the 5.8 to the left, and he was totally flailing. Like seriously - like his hands and feet were hitting each other on each flap - like a newborn penguin or something. I'm not being rude. Seriously. I have no other way to describe it. Sorry dudes.

So we went around the corner, and I led the 5.6 (well, it has a few 5.6 moves, but it's more like 5.5 or less in most places). Then DW went up it, and cleaned the draws, leaving the anchor loops at the top.

One of the gumby gang had to go (IMHO the one with the best moves), and the remaining experienced one gave the newbie a 30-second how-to "using a grigri" (ominous, since the BRD was like a homemade prototype of a semi-automatic belay device). Then he led the 5.9 between the 5.10's and the 5.11.

I started the next 5.6 in line, and it felt dang tough at the start getting to the 2nd draw (which is so typical), so I bailed and moved over one route. It got to me as well, and amid jokes of "this ain't no 5.6" I managed to find the line and finish it. At the top I traversed over to the 5.6 on the right to clean the top anchors, then put them on this route so DW could toprope it. (Later, on MP, I looked these up and consensus is that they're 5.7 - I'm not so sure - because if you always choose the easiest sequence of moves, no matter how far you go off the bolt line, it seems 5.6ish, but if you get "offroute" at all, it can get up to 5.9 moves real quick)

About this time they (the gumby gang) managed to get the poor newbie on the 5.9 that had just been led, and DW and I were sitting on the benches relaxing when suddenly the newbie fell. I didn't really "see" it, just sortof watched it. His head missed the boulder at the mouth of the cave by about 3" or so when he flipped upside down after about a 8' fall. No helmet either. He obviously had no idea how to get upright, so I asked the belayer (okay, told) to lower the climber into my arms, and I helped him get upright. Then I told them to continue lowering, which they objected to, but did anyway.

At the bottom, I told the poor climber that he had his harness on wrong, and that he had a loop out (between the belayer and the climber very poor communication and safe-climbing ethic, but the "experienced" belayer should have known better) with his leg in it, that sent him backwards when he went, and the 3' loop extended to 8' with stretch - poor poor poor form.

Well, they put a helmet on the climber, but did not fix the harness (I didn't think to check the knot) and he went back up. The climber asked his belayer buddy why he had fallen, and they totally blew us off when we answered. Enough was enough. I have finally experienced the phenomenon that the gymrat employees at Momentum talked about - knowing enough to know better than the others there, and feeling slightly like you have to instruct them, but they blow you off, and you don't want to be there when they die or worse.

The belayer was uncomfortable being around us and they packed and left. Thank you!

About then some more experienced climbers came up, with a couple of trainees in tow (semi-official guides I guess). We talked some about the gumby gang, and I set a rope on the 5.9 for DW to toprope, and rappelled down it, with about 2' to spare at the bottom. That makes the 5.9 about 60' (using a short rope on the short cliff).

She spent some time working it, and then we packed and left when a school group arrived. The teacher in charge was wearing a HERA shirt, but didn't seem too talkative. My instincts detected "I'm over my head and don't feel comfortable talking to experienced-looking climbers" and I was glad to be leaving.

Lest anyone think I'm being a jerk here, let me be the first to point out that I know the limits of my experience, and I've always felt fine about mentorship, taking suggestions and lessons from the more experienced, and I've taken professional classes with professional IMGA/AMGA guides whenever I felt the need to fill a void in my knowledge base. The problem seems to be people that are full of themselves or have an ego (or id?) issue and don't know how to just be honest and admit it when they screw up, and need to present a different face from reality for the sake of public appearance or whatever the case may be.

Please, don't take someone out their first day and make them do a 5.8/5.9 as their first route ever. If they are like super-athletic and coordinated and all maybe, but holy snot, it's pretty obvious when they're flailing and you're winching and they're never going to learn anything that way. Let them work it out on a nice short 5.6 and go from there. If they can't do the 5.6 without hanging on the rope, go back and do it till they can. Step by step. And if you don't know a handful of ways to rescue them, then please do yourself and them a favor and don't be responsible for them.

Just my .02 FWIW.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Climbing Catchup

Last I posted, we were going to go outside on Friday, and sure enough, Friday came around, and we headed out to The Draper Red Rock again, only to discover a toprope hanging on every route, and worse, a gumby flailing up every route.

After sitting at the parking area in hopeless desperation, we decided to just go to Momentum. We both had our outdoor bags, with our outdoor gear, and our outdoor shoes. We didn't have our belay tags. Fortunately, due to a glitch in the computer that meant I had never been belay certified, and the good graces of Nathan, who had tested me (sitting in the office), I got my green tag. WooHoo!

It was interesting. DW lead a new 5.8 on the wall near the old speedroute, where there used to be a toprope and some doable routes, and even a 5.6 and 5.7, but alas mostly 5.11's now due to the legendary policy of "a 5.6 on every toprope".

I don't remember much else that we did, but I vaguely remember making the final hold on that stupid grey 5.7 that's been bothering me this whole year, a yellow and purple 5.7 on the beginner side of the island, both of which had spinner holds (loose - they give under your feet and make you feel like falling).

On Tuesday we went to "The Quarry" in Provo, just down the road from work. We usually have fun there, though the routes are under-rated (so a 5.7 is more like a 5.8). I managed to climb some 5.7's with a bit of hanging, and worked a 5.8. DW did some 5.8's and 5.9's and not sure how much further - a 5.10? One of the guys there told her she had some moves, which made her day. It's nice there because no one really knows or cares much, so there's not much social pressure at all.

On Wednesday after work we went back to Momentum, and DW tried some 5.11's but was pretty tired from her diet and workout, so didn't feel good, and decided to be my belay slave!!!!

I went up some of the shorter 5.6's and 5.7's including the tan and blue 5.6's on the far wall of the island, and the orange 5.7 next to them - the ones I have lapped in the past back when I was in good climbing shape. DW mentioned some tips about what I was doing wrong that I couldn't even see, and I tried to include the solution in my workout.

Then I went around the corner and did the yellow 5.7 from last week (no spinner this time - I told them about it last time). After shaking out I decided to try the new green 5.8 right next to it. I didn't really expect it, but I onsited it. WooHoo!! My first 5.8 onsite. I got some deep-deep clearance shoes a week ago to replace the ones I gave Tristan, and oddly enough, DW says they're like clones of her Katanas. They fit like thin soft leather gloves. Perfect. I don't know if they helped or not (cause actually they feel soft and iffy so far - not really positive like my old shoes) but they did smear well, and if I can learn to trust the tips, that'd be really good.

Anyway, that was the end of my night - wasted.

This morning I didn't feel too bad. Proper nutrition, a bit of rest, and some rehab wrist/finger work, and good as new. Well, except that Tan was sick last night and up for a while with a fever. She asked if I would cuddle her as she slept so I curled up on the couch with her and we dozed off and on for about 90 min, then she asked for her own bed. Her fever was a bit less and she wasn't shaking anymore, so I took her up with a fresh bottle (she'd been refusing to drink too, and asked for a bottle now) and tucked her in.

I got up at 6 with DW to work out with her, but needed a bit more sleep, so I stayed in bed til 6:30 when Tan asked for another bottle, so I filled it and tucked her back in. I got up then and went down for a workout and since Tan was still asleep, stayed at home eating and stuff while DW took Dal to school. I guess Tan slept off and on for most the day - wowsers.

Anyway, enough on the TMI front...

Friday, September 5, 2008

Positive Fitness Message

I get emails from various fitness "guru" people, as well as subscribe to various podcasts, or audio-email clips etc.

I got this one from Elite Fitness (there are actually two Elite Fitness - one a power-lifting business in Ohio, the other a supplement message board - this is the power-lifting business)

No Excuses

Hope that's as motivational for you as it is for me.

On a side note, I climbed a new 5.6 at momentum last night. I was jokingly going to take a marker and add a "D" to the end of it. It was big holds and pretty lined up, but you couldn't "ladder" it and it had mild vertical sections (ie: somewhat overhanging, but no roofs like at The Quarry) since it's on the curvy wall facing the entrance. So you had to "think" about your moves most of the way. Thanks Steven for a great 5.6. I also did my evil grey 5.7 to the 2nd-to-last move (one more than last time) and then a newish (last month) purple 5.7 all the way. That was fun. Feeling weak and tired from working out, plus having no endurance from having not climbed in a month.

Will be outside Friday (tonight) so more later...

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Back to Climbing Inside

Since DW is back in town now, and Tif is back to sitting for us in the daytime, we had a chance to get back out climbing, er "in" climbing...

She had a chiropractic appointment, then came to get me, and we headed to The Quarry in Provo. It's owned by some of the same people involved in Momentum in Draper.

Normally there are a few different rope teams there, and today was no exception, but no one was on the roofy wall just inside the front door, so we set up there. DW did the Pink Tape 5.6 there and then I did it as well. She did a 5.7 (grey holds) and I did another 5.7 (green tape). Then she worked the first half of a 5.8 (blue tape) that had a large roof in the middle.

The Quarry is very "old-school" in their ratings. I'd say that pink tape 5.6 would be a low 5.8 at Momentum. Much more like what you'd find outside in that rating. More featured, more terrain-dependent, more off-balance.

We were pretty wasted by that time, so we ducked over to the shop, and we both tried on shoes (DW tried on some LaSportiva running shoes on clearance, and I tried on some rock shoes that I haven't tried yet - my semi-quarterly rock shoe try-on -- just in case I get any super-clearance notices so I know what companies shoes fit in what sizes if/when it happens - $100 shoes for $15 happens more than you think if you know where to look out there...) No shoes today, so we headed back, me to work, and she to get celery and bananas - ran out today on the first day of school.

Back to family breakfasts and morning time limits.