Last I posted, we were going to go outside on Friday, and sure enough, Friday came around, and we headed out to The Draper Red Rock again, only to discover a toprope hanging on every route, and worse, a gumby flailing up every route.
After sitting at the parking area in hopeless desperation, we decided to just go to Momentum. We both had our outdoor bags, with our outdoor gear, and our outdoor shoes. We didn't have our belay tags. Fortunately, due to a glitch in the computer that meant I had never been belay certified, and the good graces of Nathan, who had tested me (sitting in the office), I got my green tag. WooHoo!
It was interesting. DW lead a new 5.8 on the wall near the old speedroute, where there used to be a toprope and some doable routes, and even a 5.6 and 5.7, but alas mostly 5.11's now due to the legendary policy of "a 5.6 on every toprope".
I don't remember much else that we did, but I vaguely remember making the final hold on that stupid grey 5.7 that's been bothering me this whole year, a yellow and purple 5.7 on the beginner side of the island, both of which had spinner holds (loose - they give under your feet and make you feel like falling).
On Tuesday we went to "The Quarry" in Provo, just down the road from work. We usually have fun there, though the routes are under-rated (so a 5.7 is more like a 5.8). I managed to climb some 5.7's with a bit of hanging, and worked a 5.8. DW did some 5.8's and 5.9's and not sure how much further - a 5.10? One of the guys there told her she had some moves, which made her day. It's nice there because no one really knows or cares much, so there's not much social pressure at all.
On Wednesday after work we went back to Momentum, and DW tried some 5.11's but was pretty tired from her diet and workout, so didn't feel good, and decided to be my belay slave!!!!
I went up some of the shorter 5.6's and 5.7's including the tan and blue 5.6's on the far wall of the island, and the orange 5.7 next to them - the ones I have lapped in the past back when I was in good climbing shape. DW mentioned some tips about what I was doing wrong that I couldn't even see, and I tried to include the solution in my workout.
Then I went around the corner and did the yellow 5.7 from last week (no spinner this time - I told them about it last time). After shaking out I decided to try the new green 5.8 right next to it. I didn't really expect it, but I onsited it. WooHoo!! My first 5.8 onsite. I got some deep-deep clearance shoes a week ago to replace the ones I gave Tristan, and oddly enough, DW says they're like clones of her Katanas. They fit like thin soft leather gloves. Perfect. I don't know if they helped or not (cause actually they feel soft and iffy so far - not really positive like my old shoes) but they did smear well, and if I can learn to trust the tips, that'd be really good.
Anyway, that was the end of my night - wasted.
This morning I didn't feel too bad. Proper nutrition, a bit of rest, and some rehab wrist/finger work, and good as new. Well, except that Tan was sick last night and up for a while with a fever. She asked if I would cuddle her as she slept so I curled up on the couch with her and we dozed off and on for about 90 min, then she asked for her own bed. Her fever was a bit less and she wasn't shaking anymore, so I took her up with a fresh bottle (she'd been refusing to drink too, and asked for a bottle now) and tucked her in.
I got up at 6 with DW to work out with her, but needed a bit more sleep, so I stayed in bed til 6:30 when Tan asked for another bottle, so I filled it and tucked her back in. I got up then and went down for a workout and since Tan was still asleep, stayed at home eating and stuff while DW took Dal to school. I guess Tan slept off and on for most the day - wowsers.
Anyway, enough on the TMI front...