Monday, Sept. 22: Momentum
We only had a little time, and mostly came so DW could hang posters for the WERC program she takes care of.
First off we put Tan in her little tiny rock shoes we picked up on clearance in Dillon, CO and let her scramble around.
Note that the hand is for balance and support, and in one case to help her find the right hold. The shoes are about 4 sizes too big and should last her a couple years (unless she wears them out...).
Then we tucked her away safely in daycare and had a little time to climb, so we harnessed up and went to it. DW started on a new black 5.8 and onsited it like she was just swimming up it. Then I got on a beige 5.8 just next to it, and onsited that - I think it was my first onsite of a 5.8 ever. Then DW got on a new 5.9 and sent that onsite as well. I decided what the heck and ended up flashing it - amazing! I rested a lot, and chalked a lot. DW was shouting "You're like Alex Puccio, chalking between every hold!" Well I got up it anyway...
We grabbed Tan and headed home then to meet the boys, who were out with their father who was in town from Malaysia and would be dropped off early that night.
Tuesday, Sept. 23: The Quarry
For a break from work we sometimes climb at the Quarry during the day, and it's normally empty. Today was no exception.
DW started on a new pink 5.7 with a burly roof. She got the bottom of the roof, but didn't scope it out first, so didn't know where to go over it, and bailed. I decided what the heck, and gave it a go. I was pretty wasted by the time I got to the roof, but made the second hold over it okay, but couldn't get my legs up or go for the third hold, so I bailed.
DW tried it again, and this time she hung at the crux, but did finally send it. I gave it another shot, and this time got to the third hold, but again, couldn't get my feet up, and the way I did it hurt my shoulder a bit (but didn't make it ding, thank goodness - hate to take a month off for that again), so again, I bailed.
DW went over to an unmarked red route with an interesting start, but it became obvious right away it was in 5.10+ territory, so she bailed.
I went back to the pink 5.7 and gave it another shot. This time I got to the third hold over, hanging good, figured my feet out, and how to get to the fourth hold, but didn't have enough left to actually do it, so I bailed again.
Seems wild that you can go to the Quarry and spend a morning working a 5.7 and feel totally wasted and satisfied that you had a good climb. Far out. Of course, the whole time DW is yelling "GO POOCH!"