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Friday, February 22, 2008

Walking the Kid

Last night I got home from work, and rolled around on the floor with Tan some, since DW was watching a show on the dvr and I wanted to keep Tan from annoying her.

Suddenly Tan got up, wandered over to the shoe rack and brought me one of her shoes. I put it on her, and she went over to find the other one, and I put that on her.

A minute later she came over dragging Brennan's old coat, and she laid it on the ground and started wiggling her arms in, imitating the way he puts it on. I helped her put it on, and she just glowed with satisfaction.

She went to the front door and tried reaching the handle, so I got my coat and hat, and we went out for a walk. She just wobbled down the street in the oversize jacket like a little Eskimo baby. We went all the way down to the end of the block where the street goes West, then she got confused by the lighted mailbox post and turned around, heading home. About halfway home Dallin came running down the block, and we all walked home together.

At home she was pretty rosy-cheeked and wanted a bottle, and needed to go to bed, so I tucked her in.

What a fun evening.

I think DW has pics, so check her blog later.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Driving, PT 2

Lol, what fun. Since not many people read my blog, I feel relatively free to be as blunt and honest as I want. Thanks, non-readers ;)

Anyway, this morning, I had one of those fun events that is actually common-place anymore.

Driving along in the left lane, and some driver creeps up to fill all available space in the right lane, staying just exactly in my blind spot. Back in the old days they used to teach you that you stayed out of the blind spot as a matter of defensive driving. Now I guess the available real-estate on the roads doesn't allow for that, so they crowd in.

Now, logic and common-sense dictates that at any given moment, there are only 6 things a car can do:

1. Nothing, maintain current speed and direction.
2. Speed up.
3. Slow down.
4. Stop.
5. Go Right.
6. Go Left.

Or, actually, any combination of the above - 46655 different courses of action (6e6 -1) - but let's keep it simple and assume 6.

By driving in the blind spot, you are probably risking damage if numbers 5 or 6 occur - depending on which blind spot you are riding.

And logically, tailgating potentially violates numbers 3 or 4.

So many accidents, so obviously avoidable if anyone did the math...

But back to the topic.

I've noticed a sheep mentality among blind-spot huggers.

Like me this morning, you might want to change lanes to make a turn coming up.

You slow down. They think "holy crap! this really sharp guy slightly ahead of me on the left is slowing down! there's probably a cop right here! I better slow down" and they stay right there.

You speed up - they think "that guy looks really smart, and he's speeding up - there must not be any cops" and they stay right with you.

Sometimes, just to be annoying, and if there is no one behind me (see number 4), I'll just dead stop faster than they can react, and slide in behind them, then speed up to avoid anyone behind them.

But this morning, I managed to speed up fast enough they weren't able to fill the gap and I was able to make my turn.

Of course, because this is Utah, and every good Christian in Utah is filled with brotherly love and forgiveness, they flipped me off and sped up to try and brush my bumper (my jeep bumper is a solid iron tube, and your honda bumper is soft plastic - rear-ending me will teach one of us a lesson I suppose) then passed me shaking their fist and screaming. And this appeared to be just your average relief society sister on her way to Roberts to buy ribbon and lace for activity night.

Well, moron, you're the dumb@ss who was riding my blind spot and wouldn't let me in when I signaled and very gently tried to work my way over.

Lol, anyway, just another Utah driving gripe. Enjoy...

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Save the Penguins

Snowstorm last night. Amazing stupidity on the part of Utah drivers. Oh, well.

Shoveling this morning was "fun" - four foot drifts in the driveway.

The whole time our poor penguins were crying out for relief.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

ICE - Pipe Dream 02.05.2008

Amazing. Got to the bottom of the falls through mid-calf new snow. Avalanche tracks to the left of the falls. Ice getting thin. The WI3 we went up last time was out, so I looked to the left at a line I thought would go at WI4. Behind DW in this pic of her in her belay coat, starting at her left ear.

My belayer:



Started with an Abalakov at waist height to protect the belayer, up the thin WI4 to a short ramp of WI3- on a rock shelf protected by a bolt. (thanks rockclimbing.com Criscokid)

Stepping onto a very thin, vertical, candlesticked, cracking section (WI5?) I managed to get a screw into an old screw hole and hooked a screamer to it (didn't trust it). About 12' up from it was a tree, so I boogied up to it (well, scratched in terror up is probably more appropriate) and slinged it.

DW on her way up nearing the mantle by the slinged tree. Kissing her life goodbye?



The next 10' is probably WI2/3, BUT, there is no ice on climber's right, only broken rock under snow, and a thin ice ramp above the tree on climber's left. Sticking the pick on the left, and hooking in a rock crack on the right, then mantling, seems to work. But it's not that easy since your feet are in really bad ice, and your butt seems to be hanging 50' or so into space as you try to walk up to the mantle.

DW looking for rock at the mantle:



Smiling at 1: finding the rock 2: getting to wear a sling bandolier



And a classic finish (surviving) to a great first for both of us: