It's been great to get back to feeling good. After all the stress of the Summer and Fall, after all the death and illness, after all the traveling, it's been good to get back to the gym.
Last Saturday we got to Momentum and climbed. Of course, like I've said a dozen or more times, the routesetters there are too lame in the 5.9 and under range, and sure enough, I did a 5.6 that totally sucked, and a 5.8 that totally sucked, but then I decided to do a SoIll 5.10a for kickes. I managed to onsite it with lots of good rests. I was amazed. DW got in some great climbing as well, working her way back into the 11's where she belongs, even though it's been about 2 months since we've climbed.
Tonight (Monday, Nov 30) we managed to get back again, and this time I did a really pumpy 5.7 on the curvy front wall, and it totally got my fingers tired. Then I got on a 5.10a SoIll route by a different setter, and got pumped about halfway up and couldn't get my heart rate down by hanging, so I came down. I then got on a really slopey 5.10a on the short arete and actually really liked it up to about 2/3 of the way up. I worked that crux hard, and stuck it, but then came down, wasted for the night. Angie got on it, but she'd been working a really crimpy 5.12a so she was pretty pumped and shook out a lot on the way up, but she did really good. It's cool to think she's working a 12. Awesome.
Anyway, just have to not take the lower rated routes seriously, keep a good attitude, and get all those 10's out of the way.