Liberty! or deadness


got my pack packed last night for liberty. I have two different "concepts" going here.

1) the gear I prefer, or philosophy, or experienced
2) the gear on the list

I put together my primary, or compromise, kit, and it's in the duffle and the whole mess weighs 33 lb (everything except water, boots, and helmet). I also have emergency backup - in some cases warmer, in some cases lighter, in case I can "get away with it" or "didn't get away with it" in another duffle in case I have to switch stuff out (or can get away with switching stuff out).

Jeff Ward is a totally cool guide and I've been with him before when I did Kautz, also with IMG. I've had mostly good experiences with IMG (in Ouray you have to take one of their prefered buddy guides along for the ride, which can be odd at times). RMI has been mostly negative, but they do manage to drag a few thousand people a year up Rainier, so props for that. Mountain Madness has been excellent (for what I did). AAI has decent instruction. AMS has really good instruction.

Anyway, happy to be climbing with Jeff as leader and Mark Allen as the other guide. I think he was on Kautz as well. This is the hardest guided route on Rainier and is a test piece (a route that you do to find out where you stand as a legend in your own mind - a gateway to the next level so to speak). It's in the "50 North American Classics of Climbing" group.

Anyway, assuming I survive it (there will be three clients and two guides, and I've talked extensively with one of the clients over the past few months, the other one just barely signed up) I'll have a day of rest in Seattle with relatives, then off for a "honeymoon" weekend with Angie out rock climbing, rather than steep crappy ice snow and rock climbing.

The weather looks like it will be cold up high for a few days to make the snow solid, then warmer on summit day for an easier time (and lighter summit clothing).

More later...