Indoor Climbing - Momentum June 11

Got to Momentum about 5:00 but with the daycare issues going on there wasn't able to check the kids in till 5:20.

DW did some laps starting on a 5.8, but after a few she switched to a 5.9 on the same rope. Good job.

I started up a new 5.10 on the curved front wall, but the last 6 moves were evil slopers and I couldn't get my left hand to stick (still rehab'ing it) so I had to bail. Wish the route setters wouldn't do that. I could stick the first two, but then ran out of steam. Though it does feel good to almost send a 5.10.

DW did a 5.10C, red, blocky, on the narrow wall that used to have the speed route, that she described as "awesome" to her sometime climbing buddy Dan.

Then I decided to try a slopy 5.9 that had kicked my butt before - the off-white one on the tall end of the kid wall. Actually pulled it off. Good job me.

DW worked a 5.12A she'd worked before, but that one crux area still needs work. Other than that she did great on a really crimpy small route.

I tried a brown 5.9, slopy, near the off-white one above, that had kicked my butt before, and made it almost to the top when I finally couldn't hang on anymore - 3 more moves. Drat. Anyway, it feels good to almost make it.

DW worked a red 5.10C over the doorway to the maintenance room in the middle of the kid wall. The first few moves really suck and she really worked them hard.

I moved over to the brown 5.9 with small holds and bad feet a bit to the left of that. I did get above my high point, but managed to get my toe stuck between two holds and it pulled me off when I high-stepped with the other foot. That toe was still sore from bumping it when I came off the last 5.9, so I bailed.

All in all a good enough night - really sore, and I did manage to finish a route that I had failed on before. I'm well on my way to getting all the 9's done.

A couple weeks ago I started using my Lasportiva Solutions more, since the Acopa Aztecs have taught me to use my feet better. There was a shoe demo at the gym on Tuesday and I tried on some Miura VS in 41.5 - which I thought would be way too small but it works. I even hung around in them without climbing or tearing them off in agony - but of course, demo shoes are pretty beat up and stretched out - about what they would be after a few weeks of climbing. Synthetic leather doesn't stretch too much after all. DW says I have to buy a pair, since they seemed to work better than anything she's seen me in ever.