Friday, April 10, 2009
Scarpa Mago Momentum Climbing
Scarpa Mago Rock Climbing Shoe Extreme Sport Bouldering
Angie got a new pair of Scarpa Mago Rock Climbing Shoes on Wednesday night while we were climbing at the Quarry. We went to climb, but since it was "Mutual" and "Single Ward" night, every rope had a dozen people on it at once, mostly NOOB, so I was out. She bouldered hard, and sent most of the v0 and v1, even trying a few v2 and v3. Good stuff.
She was wasted and needed a break, and remembered that I had offered to buy her some bouldering shoes if she progressed up to v2, so I went down to see who was on duty. Christian. Far out. He's a great guy. He and Adam are pretty cool, and I go down and try on shoes with them for "fun" and they dig it.
So we went down, and dug through their stuff to find a shoe that would be good for inverted, pockets, steep, and had a good camber and pointy toe, while considering her marginal "Morton Toe". She tried quite a few, and ended up with the Mago, and the Testarossa as her two finalists.
LaSportiva Testarossa Rock Climbing Sport Bouldering Shoe
Christian had his hands full with a family from down by Nephi buying equipment for two older teenage boys, and we of course offered our two cents, and I believe helped him close the deal while still doing his best to serve his customers. In the meantime, Angie slipped into the bouldering room and compared the two shoes. The Mago won. (though I preferred the Testarossa, but it's way too much shoe for me at my humble level)
So on Thursday, during basecamp (kids climbing team) she did some toproping in them. She started on a new 5.8, but didn't like it at all so switched to a 9 that felt good to her. I went around to the other side of the wall and did a nice new 8 that I really liked. Onsited it. Then she did it and loved the pockets with her new pointy toed Magos. She got on then and tried a couple of evil 10's but didn't really feel like she was getting the best out of her shoes, threw them a few times (not at me this time) and I got on then and did the 9 she had finished first - again - onsited it (one of the few onsite 9's I've done).
I talked to her about some advice Adam gave me about cinching up the laces at the forefoot to draw the leather into the crease of the folded toes, so she broke down and tried it, and did the small brown 9 near the arete and then the yellow 10b. She did completely different footwork and took different holds, and it was great watching her step into the new world of high-end climbing these shoes would carry her into (and that's some mixed metaphors there).
She can hardly wait to get on it some more, so we're going to climb Saturday. I think the Pauls will be there - since they have a sitter and he at least is eager. Wonder if I can ever talk him into Rainier? Anyway, my wrist and fingers are sore, but hopefully I'll be back in shape for Saturday.
It was totally cool though to flash a 9.