Lame Climbing and Alaska

Climbed at Momentum Tuesday Eve. while Dal was in Basecamp (the Jr. Climbing Team). We went back over the comp routes again. First of all, they set that green Maple Route I redpointed as a 5.10c - totally the highest redpoint I've ever done and that feels cool.

Second, I managed to get up that purple sloper-from-smurf 5.9 up to the same spot again before my left hand gave up and told me to stop. Though this time I did it in much better speed and style. I was wearing the ancient Acopa JB Hightops I got off mountainproject a couple years ago. They felt slippery and didn't edge well. Probably too worn out. I switched to the new Aztecs and they felt much better.

I got on the old yellow 5.10a that I've been working for a year now. Got past all the lower sticking spots and actually only about 8 holds from the top when my left hand gave up and I popped off. I think I need to work my left hand for endurance more. Maybe lap some annoying 5.8 or 5.9 or just consecutive redpointing on the evil purple? Something.

But then we get to the whole Alaska thingy. I'm going to Alaska to do some advanced glacier training. Going up to Talkeetna and from there in a small plane to a remote glacier where I'll spend two weeks with our crew of 6 climbers and 2 guides. We'll be doing whatever is "in shape" to climb while learning advanced rope, avalanche and rescue skills. Should be fun.

So I've had to change my workouts to allow myself to recover enough (stopped doing weights) but increase my cardio for long days hiking with a pack. This time I didn't do any pack-weighted hiking or treadmills like I did for Kautz or Ecuador. We'll see how that plays out. On top of that, the minute I come home I have to get back into it because 5 weeks later I go to Mt. Rainier for the Liberty Ridge climb. Three clients and two guides. Hardest guided route on Rainier. Once you start you have to go over the top. There is no bailing. No way down. Lol. Tons of fun.

Since we have to go up and over (climb Liberty Ridge, descend Emmons Glacier) we have to carry everything on summit day (normally on a climb like this you would carry only emergency clothing and minimal food and water on summit day - maybe 10 lb), so we're limited to 30-ish pounds of our own stuff and about 15 pounds of group gear and food. I can go forever on the flats with that little load, so I just have to work on the whole 70-degree slope thing. About the same as on Iliniza Sur, but about 1,000' longer.

Anyway, DW did pretty decent on her climbs on Tue, but was also feeling a bit weaker than normal. Must be something going around ...