Tonight after my massive treadmill workout (getting ready for Mexico?) I belayed Angie while Dallin climbed at Momentum Climbing Basecamp - which is essentially the Junior Climbing Team. He's really been enjoying it and has made a lot of progress. The traversing games I made him play on the kids bouldering wall have really given him an edge, and he's growing more and more comfortable on the rope every day.
Anyway, Angie wanted to do some training for Speed Climbing, so I put together some drills based on various climb better books (I'll put a list up sometime next week - max'ed out for time this week) and some of the moves the 8-second people made.
I beat the heck out of her, having her do about 12 laps on two different 5.6's, then she did two laps on the yellow comp route rated 5.8. It was great and she loved it and has a better idea now what she can improve on.
I seriously think that if she keeps this up once a week for the next year she can get dang close to 10 seconds.
Time will tell....
For me, then when she was done I decided to test my new tape concept - different from the old one but just about as supportive without being quite so restrictive.
I got on the blue 5.7 (that used to be a 5.6 back when I was lapping 5.6's) and did it, not too bad, decent on my feet, not so much on my hands, though I tried to keep my ring fingers up off the holds some. Then I got right back on to do a beige mystery route (different from the one that blew out my hand a month ago). I put a bit more weight on my hands, but didn't do quite so good on my feet, though I did pull off a toe hook on the arete. But I did it, that's the most important. I'd say it's a 5.7, but I might be a bit low, since it has a few tiny holds if you're too short to reach the juggier ones.
And that was our fun night of climbing.