We had Anne tonight, so we went to Momentum together, DW and I. After harnessing up and all, I decided to try sans-taping to see how that went. At Red Rock the other day I didn't use tape on my 5.10a, and it went just fine.
DW warmed up on a 5.10 and I started on a new 5.6 in the middle of the beginner's wall. I decided that I needed some tape after all, so I just taped the middle joint of my third fingers. Hope that helps some.
DW then worked a few nasty 5.11's, and I did a "New" 5.6 - turns out it's that nasty 5.7 beige one that messes me over at the end. I plowed through that sequence and sent it.
In the middle of all this, a lady came up to Angie and said she was really interested in WERC, but couldn't come Tuesdays ever ever. So we patiently explained that she could still hang with the girls, and that she could take private lessons if she wanted, so we asked what she wanted to do and what she could do now. Guess she could lead 5.9 trad okay, but that 5.10 trad kicked her butt. Well, I could have come up with a list of exercises for her to try, but I don't think WERC could help her otherwise - so we suggested she hook up with Dawn - our favorite 5.10 Trad Girl. Not sure that was what she wanted to hear though.
Anyway, then I did a new grey route next to the green 5.9+ by the kids routes. It wasn't too bad - figure a low 5.8? Then I did the new black 5.8+ on the back short wall. It was a plus all right - and a hold was broken into a little one inch square rotating on the bolt. I took it anyway, but was nervous. I got about 2/3's up and decided it hurt bad enough to bail - the next move required a deadpoint off a backstep with really low lock-off, and I had abused my shoulder bad enough leading drytool on Saturday to decide to not push it.
All in all a good night climbing.
Then onto the real fun....
As part of my Ecuador Training Program, I'm using the really cool Freemotion Incline Trainer in the upstairs fitness center at Momentum.
In Ecuador, I'll be trying:
Iliniza Norte at 16,818 ft Ecuador's 8th highest peak, and Iliniza Sur at 17,267 ft the 6th highest peak in Ecuador, used to be one larger volcano that split in two. The North peak is easier, and except for the "El Paso de la Muerte", which can be a bobsled run if icy, is primarily a steep hike with a few 5.3 moves. The South peak is a steep snow walk, with the possibility of a sketchy bergschrund crossing.
Antisana, at 18,891 ft, is Ecuador's 4th highest volcano and one of the least climbed. It has a reputation for being a difficult and dangerous mountain because of the constant movement of the glacier including shifting seracs on the upper mountain.
Back to the present, I loaded up my pack, the Gregory Pallisade I got for free with my REI Member Benefit last year (combined with a 20% off member-only coupon - woohoo!). I like it especially because of the adjustable hip angle. I have a high iliac crest that ends just below my ribcage, so despite being 6'1" I have to get the small or medium size backpack (19" spine). I can rotate it so it sits at an angle that cuts in just inside that few inch band of narrow flesh. Feels good. I put a 50lb dumb-bell into the pack today, for a total of about 65lb - heaviest yet in this workout cycle. I got on the Incline Trainer in my pack and running shoes, set it for 30% angle and 1.0 MPH. I did 3 minute intervals of 1.0/1.1/1.2/1.3 for a total of 12 minutes, then did it all over again three total times for 36 minutes of workout. I hit 1,000' at 35 minutes. Good job.
DW rode one, but I don't know what her stats were. Also, Banner and Summer were riding treadmills (good friends of ours from the gym), so it was a bit busier than I'm used to upstairs.
So that's it for tonight. On Tuesday Evening is WERC, so I'm going to head up after work and work out again, then switch cars with DW so she can do WERC and I can take the kids home and watch evil shows with them....