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Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Climbing Report: Oct. 7

We normally climb during the day on Tue, but Tan was sick, so DW had Tif stay home today. Since this is a WERC day, DW had to go climb tonight anyway, so we headed to Momentum right after work.

Since DW was going to climb in WERC, she belayed me. I first tried the evil purple 5.8 (HAH!) on the arete by the green arete route (which I guess must be a 5.7, since I did send it and haven't sent the purple one yet). And feeling totally whipped from my workout last night I decided to just train today.

(in case anyone is curious, I did 2 sets of 10 hanging abs/knee raises followed by 10 sets of 5 reps at 225 lb good form deadlifts from the floor, followed by 3 sets of 3 reps at 295 lb just for the CNS benefits - totally wasted on the posterior chain)

So what I did was just climb. I got on a rope, and anything that could be reached from that rope I started up. Sometimes 1/3 the way up, sometimes 2 moves, whatever. 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.11d. Great fun. Totally wasted by the time I was done. I wrapped up doing a 5.5 that took everything I had.

We gathered up the kids and they climbed for a while. Tan did some great bouldering and Bren is on the verge of figuring out the overhanging corner to make the traverse, and Dal did the traverse each way, then on a challenge from the front desk, did it both ways without stopping. I told him the next challenge is to try to do it without matching hands (putting two hands on one hold at the same time), which is very difficult to do for some widely-spaced holds. I taught him how to reach under and turn his shoulders with his feet positioned forward (I'll see about getting a picture sometime) and he made it to the corner. Far out.

We got drinks and split a cookie, then we took off and DW stayed to manage her class. I think like 12 people came. Guess that proves a point to those who contended that the new WERC plan that Jeff came up with wasn't the right one. I think that's the most attendees since Laurie left for Colorado. Anyway, no more gossip...

At home we had a Sponge Bob marathon. We all cuddled up on the couch together until 9PM, then I put Tan and the Boys to bed and thanks again to the wonder of DVR, watched the uber-classic House of Dark Shadows.

DW came home, also totally wasted and went pretty much straight to bed. I stayed up for a little while longer, then packed my poor hands in various inflammation-reducing creams and gels and went to bed. Whew!