I'm pretty stoked. I've been able to work out, manage my recovery, climb, and actually rehab.
Today (Saturday, Apr 5) I climbed with DW and did my first experiment with doing laps. I roped up and climbed a 5.6 five times in a row with minimal rest, doing different techniques. It worked out pretty good - for simplicity I used the short beige route that seems natural to me (though I don't really "like" it).
After that DW did a few climbs on 5.9 and 5.10. Then I decided to try another butt-kicker. Last week I managed to send (complete without hanging on the rope) a 5.8 that has kicked my butt for almost a year. I set my sights on the short beige 5.7 that has eluded me for the past 4 months. The 3rd-to-last hold is tough to get to, is a left-hand (my weak rehab-finger hand) grab, and requires a dainty step to get to.
This time I rushed up to it, and my hand just closed on it. Far out. Then I stepped up and grabbed the next two holds, one right after the other, then slapped the top bar - sent it.
So now maybe I can get outside and do some climbing this year and look forward to it.
Of course, there are still a dozen or so butt-kickers left for me to do in the gym...
Today (Saturday, Apr 5) I climbed with DW and did my first experiment with doing laps. I roped up and climbed a 5.6 five times in a row with minimal rest, doing different techniques. It worked out pretty good - for simplicity I used the short beige route that seems natural to me (though I don't really "like" it).
After that DW did a few climbs on 5.9 and 5.10. Then I decided to try another butt-kicker. Last week I managed to send (complete without hanging on the rope) a 5.8 that has kicked my butt for almost a year. I set my sights on the short beige 5.7 that has eluded me for the past 4 months. The 3rd-to-last hold is tough to get to, is a left-hand (my weak rehab-finger hand) grab, and requires a dainty step to get to.
This time I rushed up to it, and my hand just closed on it. Far out. Then I stepped up and grabbed the next two holds, one right after the other, then slapped the top bar - sent it.
So now maybe I can get outside and do some climbing this year and look forward to it.
Of course, there are still a dozen or so butt-kickers left for me to do in the gym...
AWESOME! You really rocked it! Congrats!
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