Like on DW's blog, we went climbing outside at Rock Canyon on Wed. Night. Walking to "The Kitchen" we passed the water tank and saw some sheep right next to the North fork in the trail (sidewalk) and up the hill above it.
There was a large group at "The Red Slab" seeming to have a lot of fun. At the foot of "The Right Corner" 5.6 I dumped my stuff, put together a rack (having no clue what I'd need) and went around the West side to climb up. Easy class 3/4 (could someone fall and die if they were nervous? is that the criterion for class 4?). I found the notch for the route, and above it found a chopped hanger (ancient) and above that maybe 10' a nice new hanger. Down a ways near the edge were two hangers - something similar to a coldshut and one I have no idea what it was - like an eyebolt all bent up.
I used a 7MM cord and put a figure-8 on the end, clipping it to the new hanger with a wire biner and a locker opposed (more safe than I really needed). I put a clove hitch on that and wiggled down to the coldshut, adjusting as I went. I doubled a 4' sling and clipped it to the coldshut then put opposed biners at the bottom of it and eyeballed a figure-8 on the 7MM cord (about 14' down), then clipped it in.
I flaked out the rope and clipped the center marker into the opposed biners, then tossed down a loop and lowered till the last 15', then flipped it over yelling "ROPE" - too late in the wind of course - almost got them. They didn't expect it either.
Walked down around to the bottom and tied in. After belaying everyone for a bit, I figured out that there were some little wear grooves in the rock where the rope would have less friction - where it was now it was pretty sticky in the cracks and wanted to wrap on the little flakes and horns of loose rock in the crack. Might even be better to put it on the chains at the top of the 10C just to the right (West), but it's harder to get to those from the top.
DW has the pics up on her site.
Passers-by were funny.
"Look at those three cute boys!"
Poor Tan.
There was a large group at "The Red Slab" seeming to have a lot of fun. At the foot of "The Right Corner" 5.6 I dumped my stuff, put together a rack (having no clue what I'd need) and went around the West side to climb up. Easy class 3/4 (could someone fall and die if they were nervous? is that the criterion for class 4?). I found the notch for the route, and above it found a chopped hanger (ancient) and above that maybe 10' a nice new hanger. Down a ways near the edge were two hangers - something similar to a coldshut and one I have no idea what it was - like an eyebolt all bent up.
I used a 7MM cord and put a figure-8 on the end, clipping it to the new hanger with a wire biner and a locker opposed (more safe than I really needed). I put a clove hitch on that and wiggled down to the coldshut, adjusting as I went. I doubled a 4' sling and clipped it to the coldshut then put opposed biners at the bottom of it and eyeballed a figure-8 on the 7MM cord (about 14' down), then clipped it in.
I flaked out the rope and clipped the center marker into the opposed biners, then tossed down a loop and lowered till the last 15', then flipped it over yelling "ROPE" - too late in the wind of course - almost got them. They didn't expect it either.
Walked down around to the bottom and tied in. After belaying everyone for a bit, I figured out that there were some little wear grooves in the rock where the rope would have less friction - where it was now it was pretty sticky in the cracks and wanted to wrap on the little flakes and horns of loose rock in the crack. Might even be better to put it on the chains at the top of the 10C just to the right (West), but it's harder to get to those from the top.
DW has the pics up on her site.
Passers-by were funny.
"Look at those three cute boys!"
Poor Tan.
Way to go baby! You did so awesome setting up that top rope. I heard you yell Rope but it was like the split second before the rope hit and it got Dallin a tiny bit...he didn't mind. lol
ReplyDeletePoor Tan..now with these new hair clips, everyone will think A. he is actually a she, or B. he sure is a girly looking boy--strange parents!