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Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Rock Climbing Digression

Not done with the Alaska Blogging by a long shot, but wanted to get in some rock climbing sharing time here.

Since I got the Acopa Aztecs and they've been supporting my feet, I've been feeling pretty good and generally strong. I've been attempting the "mystery routes" the ones with no rating. I did a really cool yellow in the corner by the 5.9 dihedral and it didn't feel too bad. Turns out it's a 5.10.

I did that green maple route - had to work it, but made it bottom to top no hangs on the 2nd or 3rd try, and it's a 5.10c.

I did a nice new blue, and it's not rated yet, so dunno. I say it's a 5.9+ and Angie says it's a 10 from her climb of it - she did work harder than I've seen her work 9's so maybe.

I've been working that horrible purple 5.9 sloper-fest, but haven't made it past my sticking point yet, though I think I know how to now.

I've been working an evil 5.10a beige on the curvy front wall, and finally managed to stick the evil slanted slippery block that I keep getting stuck on, but haven't made it past it. Maybe next week.

I did a purple 5.9+ that works up the inverted section of the main wall, but hung once.

I did a new blue that DG says is 9+ or 10- and got to a really yucky sloper (on the left hand - doh! like all of them) after hanging twice. I restarted and ran up to it, having picked a better line based on my previous attempt. I think I can send it within the week.

I've also done a few of the new 8's and 7's, but nothing memorable.

There is a new yellow (oops!) red that I did, think it's a 5.6 but we'll see, and oddly enough, it has some cool pockets on it that I actually took as a lockoff. Best of all, it's like the first route in a long time I think I can lap on - so I'll see about doing that soon.

Still recovering from Alaska I think.

Got out to Rock Canyon and did a lead rope solo on Gazelle 5.5 in "The Wild" a relatively new moderate limestone area in Rock Canyon just outside Provo Utah.

First one of the year.

So, it's been a ton of fun working and sending some 10's

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Alaska Day 1 part 2 (May 2, 2009) - Anchorage to Talkeetna

Sean got up missing breakfast bar, so we went for a walk about a mile to the Tesoro quickmart where he got a carton of chocolate milk and I got a carton of orange juice. On the way back Troy met us along the road and took us back to the Microtel to get our crap and head over to his office where he had to repack after his recent Wilderness First Responder course.



Naz was getting in at 3ish, and would ride with Amy and Leah. In the meanwhile, we guys would head out as soon as Troy was done. On the way out of town we stopped at the local classic diner "Lucky Wishbone" and I had a halibut burger and onion rings - carbing up for the 12 day adventure.

We got into Talkeetna, where there was still snow on the streets and checked into Talkeetna Roadhouse, where I had a reservation for Sean and I, and Troy got a room for he and Amy. Naz and Leah are going to stay in the bunks.



Sean and I wandered the streets looking for a great view over the river while Troy napped in his room to catch up on his sleep.



Amy rolled into town with her crew and we all walked and talked around town getting to know one another, then had our first meal together in the Roadhouse.



(from left, Sean, Troy, Naz and Leah)

We went to sleep in the midnight-sun duskiness with a breakfast planned at the Roadhouse, then on to AMS to meet our Guides and get on the way.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Alaska Pics Little Switzerland Pika Glacier

Got my pics up - before I put up the "diary" version, just though I'd put this out first.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Charles.Miske/AMSPIKAMay_2009#

I'll see about putting up my "diary" later when I catch up at work.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Alaska Day 1

Made it here - flew in with Sean (who flew from TN) and arrived at midnight. The baggage carousel took almost 45 minutes to spit out our suitcases - guess the hamsters were tired.

Took the Holiday Inn Express shuttle to the Microtel where Sean had a room reserved. Checked in easy, went to bed around 1.

I got up at 7:30 and came down for a snack at the breakfast bar while Sean slept (He's about 5 hours behind here in Alaska - I'm only 2 - jetlag going back will suck best for him).

It was cool coming into Alaska along the fjiord-like coast and seeing the midnight sun on the edge of the Northern horizon. Gorgeous red and blue light in the sky - wonder if Rupert is the reason for the red?

Anyway, going to call my dearest DW and then see when Sean wakes and hook up with Troy for the trip to Talkeetna.

Maybe more later, maybe not til the 14th? Cya!